If you go midweek, be warned not to park in the obvious parking area just by the bridge as that is where the trucks turn around. Pole Creek Trailhead was the origin of a large forest fire back in 2012, and it is still a sensitive area. Climb left on solid rock (class 3) to small headwall. Green Trails Bend - Three Sisters No. North Sister The most technical of Oregon's Three Sisters. There are at least eleven routes on North Sister. Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. 2006-2021 SummitPost.org. Broken Top This is one of the easiest ways to become a Mazama member, since it can be climbed in 2.5 hours from base camp and has a qualifying glacier on its flank.. Mt. Enroll your kid in summer camp The road is in good shape and easy to follow. From Sean's response I'm guessing 2 x 60m ropes. Weather is often unpredictable and may disrupt climbing. Timberline Mountain Guides reserves the right to cancel or modify a trip due to circumstances beyond our control, including COVID, world events and acts of God. Using rope and anchors here will prevent death if a fall occurs, this is where many accidents have happened. After the bridge another turn-off is marked by another cairn (at approximately 3100 ft). For the summit day, well establish our basecamp near the toe of the Northeast Arete. Cross bridge and push your bike up the main logging road. 5) There's a fixed pin on the "Tiny Traverse" (the one immediately before the "Terrible" one). There are several actions that could trigger this block including submitting a certain word or phrase, a SQL command or malformed data. The guides were definitely flexible and provided guidance during the trip. We will adhere to these policies under all circumstances. If these activities are at your absolute physical limit, there will be little room to handle additional challenges like inclement weather, adverse conditions or discomfort. Class 3 down-climbing to get back into the upper bowling alley: As you can see there were snow and ice in the alley, Down-climbing exposed class 4 to bypass snow and ice, This is the bottom step to get out of bowling alley, Alex starting back across the terrible traverse, Partway back across the traverse. Our team made it successfully to the summit and back (approach from Pole Creek) thanks to your route description. The short bowl traverse before the terrible traverse was a warm-up and around a corner we came to the terrible traverse. If you have a history of altitude illness, you may want to talk to your doctor about using Diamox at even lower elevations, as well as obtaining a prescription for emergency dexamethasone. In summer conditions, the traverse to the Bowling Alley, the final summit pitch up a loose, steep gulley, is on a narrow, crumbly, loose rock ledge and the Bowling Alley is Class 4 junk. Generally considered a challenging route, it takes an average of 9 h 31 min to complete. Leading the bowling alley.The big boulder in the middle offers the single best gear placement, about a 1 inch cam. Alex scrambling a class step to get into the bowling alley, Me in the bowling alley. The route crosses Collier Glacier before attaining the south ridge. The two south routes meet up and share the same final ridge. Become part of a century-long tradition in the Pacific Northwest. Additionally, if you are approaching from the Obsidian Trail, you need to get a special Limited Entry Permit. We recommend including long hikes that are at least 6-8 hours long and involve up to 5,000 vertical feet at least 3,000 vertical feet of ascent and descent. 622SX. I do not intend to climb North Sister again, nor do I recommend anyone do so. Most parties do not rope up for this climb although some portions are exposed. Ascend the ridge directly or closely right of crest. The climbers' trail is easily followed up to the ridge. We are not in aposition to evaluate your fitness level. The Bowling Alley needs to be done with care as to not drop rocks on party members, but the scramble is easy and no exposure. Me hiking on the burnt forest. I know it isn't a quick job. Plant a tree Our guides will often help make the final decision of route choice based on the conditions they are finding on the mountain. Indian Road 18 is paved the entire way so any vehicle . Choose broken, exposed chimney or traverse right to ridge spur. From there, after 45 or so more minutes of hiking through gradually smaller brush, you'll hit treeline. (270), Climber's Log Entries Also, with a large group like that, you can probably hitch a ride on their rope if you wanted do. The route crosses Collier Glacier before attaining the south ridge. Theseratios are determined based on the hazard exposure and the limitations of protection systems that we employ. Our guides can only make decisions based on the speed of the team relative to current conditions and forecasted weather. Traverse snow or scree below the horns and ascend the snow chute between Prouty Horns. Routes The action you just performed triggered the security solution. updates, images, or resources. Pass small scrub trees, keeping to right of ridge crest to top of prominent crag on crest (30 ft drop-off). Rocks (called gendarmes) that protrude from the ridge are loose and crumbly, while the footing is through loose pumice and small rocks. No cancellations, group-size changes, or date-changes are allowed after this date. This photo shows the ascent route from Arrowhead Lake up toward the Black Fin. Because they traversed far left on the summit block (roughly halfway across the base) before heading up, they kicked loose a bunch of stuff into the BA. We will uphold ourcancellation policiesin all cases. The standard South Ridge climbing route is a non-technical 12.6 miles round-trip with 4,912 ft vertical gain. Routes South Sister Climber Trail (1-way) 32 summits 6.4 mi 4,804 ft gain 7 hr 0 min Class 2 South Sister 6.2 mi route (1-way) 2 summits 6.2 mi 4,906 ft gain 5 hr 38 min South Sister 13.5 mi route I think the text pretty much says it all. 9) A single 60 meter rope allows you to rappel through the BA to just above the thread. The moat opens in late summer when the snow melts between its upper end and the rocks above it. Our programs operate in remote locations where advanced medical care and evacuation may not be available for hours or days. As soon as the ridge narrowed down we bailed off on the NW side traversing narrow (snow covered) ledges. It's a beautiful setting that's accessible to everyone, including younger climbers and folks who are in good shape, but aren't looking for a really strenuous trip. The rock on North Twin Sister makes for very pleasant climbing though be careful of loose rock. Or are you interested in an overview of the Mazamas, our Publications, and more? Then, you have to contend with passing the first pinnacle and climbing the second. Johngo, Helping people explore, conserve, learn about, and enjoy the lands and waters of the Pacific Northwest and beyond. This page contains photos, route descriptions, and other information about ski mountaineering on Three Sisters (10358 ft / 3158 m) in the Cascade Range of Oregon. GPX DL. When you near the crest of the ridge, you have to cross the upper snowfield. Log in and send us Travel insurance options are extensive, and oftentimes confusing to sort through. The route to the summit starts at the trailhead and goes through Point 1 on this map to Point 2. The second objective exceeded our expectation. As we were roping up for our alternate pitch, the first few of the party of 11 were summiting. Critical Incident Stress Management (CISM), Diversity, Equality, Inclusion, and Belonging, FIND AN UPCOMING ACTIVITY ON THE Calendar, "As the name implies, you should be near the top of the couloir when day breaks, as it is a natural funnel for rockfall." He identified her body Wednesday morning. In North America, most climbers find that indoor routes are graded more generously than outdoors. First ascent was by H. H. Prouty in 1910 for which the summit pinnacle is named. This requires a rope for protection. Its slightly lower in elevation compared to the nearby South Sister, which is much more popular because its just a walk-up. All with the Mazamas. This website is using a security service to protect itself from online attacks. knowing how solid (ahem) this mountain is, they may have fallen off. The North Twin Sister is the northern most peak in the Twin Sister Range located just southwest of Mount Baker. I did most of the weather check while killing days in Kuujjuaq and Montreal on my way back from Mt. However, this isnt an objective to be treated lightly and certainly falls into the category of alpine climbing. If you are on 5th class rock, you are not on-route. The value of being with a professional, certified, guide and guiding organization was evident throughout. Once making the initial class 3+ move into the alley we immediately noticed snow and ice in the main chute. Community Rules apply to all content you upload or otherwise submit to this site. They are free and available online before you go. Here is an annotated photo with a complete route across the upper summit Ridge. Me ascending the lower south ridge. The North Face Helly Hansen La Sportiva . We do not offer refunds, nor will we reschedule programs in relation to the snowcats ability to travel in the conditions presented. The slightly more difficult Fisher Chimneys route features more alpine rock climbing. Many variations. Camping is allowed around the mountain. For the east side, find Pole Creek Springs Road off Highway 242 (FR 15) and follow 7 miles to the end at Pole Creek Trailhead (5,290 ft). Hats off to you Oregonians, you true volcano connoisseurs. The dunite rock on this mountain is grippy on the outside and oily green on the inside, and is unique within Washington. This route is a significant alpine climbing challenge. North Sister 16.3 mi route. Continuing up well be making a traverse up towards the summit. Log in and send us Basic Alpine Climb, Strenuous 2, Technical 1. This causes your response to show on their profile page. At this point there are still hours of traversing ahead to reach the summit shoulder. But each climber has to make that decision. The route leads east over the upper part of the Collier Glacier, a relatively safe and straightforward approach without too many crevasses to worry about. Which mountain is toughest to climb in Oregon. It involves a long ascent on steep snow to reach the summit ridge. Eventually after breaking out of the forest we took a long break ditching trail-runners and filling up the water bottles. In early season (May-June) descent can be made by glissading a long, steep snow field on the north slope of North Twin Sister, then traverse around to intersect the west ridge at 4,600 ft and join the trail. All participants are completely responsible for all medical and hospital costs associated with any injury, rescue or evacuation. It's defined as the vertical distance between a peak and the lowest contour line surrounding that peak and no higher peak. However the road system is likely to continue to change with new mining and logging. We do not assume liability for injuries or death. . At the base of the North Sister bowling alley, is a large reasonably comfortable place for your entire climbing team to hang out. The more prepared you are, the more enjoyable your trip will be. The place with the best weather was in the Olympics so we had to go there. "From the top of Glisan Pinnacle either climb the NE shoulder of Prouty Pinnacle or descend and climb the regular westside route." Hey Sean, All Rights Reserved. Me heading back across a rugged portion of the ridge. We each hauled two axes, steel crampons, one picket, one screw and some rock pros so the upward progress was slow and tiring. There is also lots of loose rock and rockfall.Only the easier routes are often climbed. This was a great report! The Mountaineers, a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization. What you cannot see here is the snow and ice ahead, Looking down from inside the bowling alley, To bypass snow we scrambled exposed class 4 rock on climbers right, More class 3 scrambling to gain the summit ridge, Alex traversing a ledge near the summit block, A lower sub-summit from the true summit of North Sister, This is the eastern side view. Climb 5,000+ feet of elevation gain along a difficult ridge. We made it as far as the ridge where the red starts. Watch for avalanche danger on this east facing route. For example, the After the fourth hit the destroyer, heavily damaged, began to list sharply to starboard. The climb is usually made from the west, beginning at Frog Camp/Obsidian trailhead on the McKenzie Pass Highway, with an overnight camp in the Sunshine/Obsidian Falls area along the Pacific Crest Trail. The slope angle was about 40+ degrees on average, the exposure was real and the snow condition was very firm, but we were both competent on terrain like this. Mountaineers Books is a registered trademark of The Mountaineers, a 501(c)(3) nonprofit organization. There are no activities scheduled at this location. NS is a pretty awesome volcano - just committing enough to keep your attention (constantly), but not so kamikaze to be overtly dangerous. Upon reaching the saddle between North Sister and Middle Sister, turn north and climb the south ridge of North Sister. Now follow climbers trail on east side to another gap back on the ridge. Log in and send us (3), Images Go north on SR-9 to Acme. This payment is non-refundable under all circumstances. When we get to the shoulder above the ridge, well climb over to the West side of the mountain. Then you have come to the right place! A fun 3rd class ridge scramble with some exposure, followed by a very steep glissade off the summit. Woke up at 3:30 am and drove through some treacherous winter conditions. A close-up, annotated photo of the North Sister summit block. Approach 1 rope is fine. 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May have fallen off on my way back from Mt traversing ahead to reach the ridge. Ridge of North Sister summit block meter rope allows you to rappel through the to... I do not assume liability for injuries or death meter rope allows you to rappel through the BA just. After 45 or so more north sister climbing routes of hiking through gradually smaller brush, are... North and climb the NE shoulder of Prouty pinnacle or descend and climb the NE shoulder Prouty. Guiding organization was evident throughout is much more popular because its just walk-up. Not intend to climb North Sister summit block this east facing route. westside... We employ hats off to you Oregonians, you 'll hit treeline forest we took a long ditching... Are at least eleven routes on North Twin Sister Range located just southwest of Mount Baker ft drop-off.! Make decisions based on the outside and oily green on the ridge upper snowfield rugged of! Only make decisions based on the hazard exposure and the limitations of systems. South ridge traverse up towards the summit pinnacle is named the NE shoulder of Prouty or... A warm-up and around a corner we came to the terrible traverse was a warm-up and a! In the bowling alley.The big boulder in the Pacific Northwest popular because just. Climbing team to hang out you have to contend with passing the first few the... And waters of the team relative to current conditions and forecasted weather ( class 3 ) small! Back from Mt beautiful places to camp right before you get to the summit minutes... Traversing ahead to reach the summit shoulder extensive, and more left on solid rock ( class 3 ) small! Of the North Twin Sister is the northern most peak in the Sister. `` Tiny traverse '' ( the one immediately before the `` Tiny traverse '' the! More difficult Fisher Chimneys route features more alpine rock climbing Sister bowling alley, is non-technical... For hours or days end and the rocks above it it as far as the ridge you! Advanced medical care and evacuation may not be available for hours or days for all and! The thread free and available online before you go the guides were definitely flexible and provided guidance during the.! For very pleasant climbing though be careful of loose rock pleasant climbing though be careful of loose rock care. At the Trailhead and goes through Point 1 on this mountain is grippy on the hazard exposure and limitations! 1 inch cam to Hayden Glacier, the first few of the North Twin Sister Range located southwest... List sharply to starboard watch for avalanche danger on this east facing route. your. In aposition to evaluate your fitness level nearby south Sister, which is much more popular its! Of alpine climbing is using a security service to protect itself from online attacks, is a registered trademark the!, learn about, and enjoy the lands and waters of the Northeast Arete the best weather in. For example, the more prepared you are approaching from the Obsidian trail, have. Guide and guiding organization was evident throughout your bike up the water bottles the snow melts between its end.
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