The program helped to rehabilitate families whod had been affected by the tsunami, giving them new ways to earn a living, Suresh explains. A bit more expensive but still good. The lap seam is very much a bit of style flair and is probably worth doing without on your first suit. Bespoke suits are thus more expensive and take longer to produce, but they will provide you with a better fit than a custom suit ever could. All bespoke has small margins and much higher production costs money spent on making, rather than selling. So basically I will be sad 4 days a week for a while! Looking at the second photo the silhouette appears to show a wider hip then shoulder and quite large flaps. . Looking back at this, would you still have gotten the suit in 13oz instead of something like a 10/11oz? I want to have a morning suit made. Just an idea. Whitcomb & Shaftesbury offer two types of service: both cut and fitted in London, but one mostly made in India ('Classic Bespoke') the other made in London ('Savile Row Bespoke'). Simon, have you tried a MTM service such as MyTailor in the United States? We felt that lack of advice offered us a huge gap in the market.. Do I need to make clear when setting up the appointment I want the cutter to do the measurements? Simon. I think there is often a risk with bespoke that people expect perfection, and everything to have been considered for them, when it is more interactive, and does have most benefits over time. I might someday soon be able to have a quality bespoke suit as this falls within my budget. Touch device users can explore by touch or with swipe gestures. As a more extreme example how does it compare to your C&M and Cifonelli suits: if you say its nearly as good that may change everything!! I havent had a suit or jacket made in a while. But as I live in Geneva, and Varese would not be such a long drive from here, would Sartoria Vergallo also be a great option for high-end bespoke at relatively good prices? Do you think W&S is better value, better workmanship than Alexandra Wood ( do you know whether AW is bespoke proper, fully canvassed, basted etc ) ? Thank you. Gone for a nice navy classic worsted. And there arent many good soft MTM options (we also tend not to review them often as they change so frequently, unlike the tailors). Among many others, it is known for the large number of ateliers located on it, Read More. I also have a nice lime green from Hermes Though they are all slimmer now then they used to be changed two years ago. The strange thing is that this occurs in three different suits from 2 different makers with 3 fittings each. Fashion Designer - Whitcom & Shaftesbury Several top brands including Dunhill, Gieves & Hawkes, and Ozwald Boateng offer this service. Londons Best New Tailors Arent on Savile Row. In terms of house styling, who would you compare W&S to? Any thoughts as to where I might find one? Someone asked that recently on the post announcing their US tour. I am unsatisfied considering GB is 850 but their forte is not in this style of tailoring. 192 following. Similarly for General Eyewear, great guys and i am very happy with the end result. If done as a sports coat, would you consider it too structured/formal to wear tieless? Thats really interesting to hear. I didnt think too much of G&W so am taking them out of the running. My experience not so good. At Maison Bonnet, for example, the process would be a lot more involved. Im glad to say that this promise is fulfilled. Free shipping for many products! Is it sailing, sailing, or the way to new horizons? Impressive finish, congratulations! According to their website the price GBP 1360 is without VAT. I have checked them out however note that: Great article . Predominantly a Savile Row style or do they stray into Neapolitan construction as well? Alex N. Even in fittings when there are no buttons and buttonholes, there will be rows of stitching or chalk marks where the buttons are planned to go, and these will line up. Whilst on the topic of suits at the cheaper end, have you had any experience of Des Merrion in Leeds? Whitcomb & Shaftesbury makes hand made bespoke suits and shirts using traditional tailoring techniques Whitcomb & Shaftesbury The results are great and I would very much enjoy hearing how your experience is. And if the Italians with their inherent expressiveness dress brightly, boldly Read More, Mens accessories: the image of a man It is undeniable that the image consists of details. Its nice in a sports coat, but frankly its not one I would wear with denim. Also, in terms of Whitcombs house styleI prefer a more classical style although my technical knowledge of suiting is lacking. For sewing the shirt you can choose the following fabrics: poplin, jacquard, oxford, twill, pinpoint or herringbone. This will offer better value than any MTM service, by some margin. Both Suresh and Mahesh will be touring the U.S. between November 16 and December 1, visiting New York, Washington D.C., Boston, Los Angeles and then returning to New York. More on Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, such as John's background at Kilgour, in the first post here The style is slightly different, in that W&S tend to cut with a little less drape, less of a wide shoulder. Their 'classic bespoke' service, which involves cutting the suit in London (by a very experienced Row cutter), and then having it largely made in India (in a workshop run by a Row tailor) promised fantastic value at 1350 + VAT for a suit. Have been considering a Drakes MTM recently Simon, as a soft option. As ever a brief article on this subject would be highly appreciated! I wouldnt go if you want that strong shoulder, no. Have a good weekend. Outstanding blog, Simon. Interestingly, there is also quite a lot of drape to the chest something I like on my Anderson & Sheppard suits both for their comfort and impression of a bigger upper body. I certainly couldnt see it in any of the fittings but its the exact same thing with both tailors. Also for the sake of comparison would the drawbacks of mtm for soft tailoring (disregarding fit as obvious) be less of the hand details. Cheers. Answer: The street's namesake is Sir George Savile, a 17th century politician who became the 1st Marquess of Halifax. There isnt necessarily a third fitting, but there will usually be one or two small things that its worth refining if its your first suit. Having said that moreso that the fit quality shines through. Although given how many issues tailors have had over the past 30 years (particularly changing business models or cutters so youre relationship goes out the window) I think theyve got as much chance of staying around as anyone. It also depends how close the styles are. Hi Simon, I know comparing tailors from Italy and England is like comparing apples and pears (style wise), but just from a quality perspective how would you compare Sartoria Vergallo to this W&S offering? Do you see this as suitable for business, or not so much? The cut of this coat gives, to my eyes, a pyramid shape with your shoulders narrower than hips/waist. Im also based at Mortimer House, on the 6th floor. Is sufficient to have the master coatmaker in the fittings or you absolutely need to see the cutter? No, the style is different in other ways too. This site is protected by reCAPTCHA Enterprise and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply. No, not necessarily. If the later, have you seen any examples? Its old Kilgour, closest to A&S probably. Whitcomb might have a slightly greater range in style than Sexton, but not much. Theres no difference between the quality of a cutter than only does one real style, and one that does more. Have a look at my posts in the past on Rubinacci bespoke. However I think it worthy to note that UK perfumers are clearly upping the game in involving customers on a fragrance experience. Congrats on the blog. "Artisan of the Year 2021" - Permanent Style I am probably being naive, but my expectation prior to these two experiences was that i should be able to turn up and they do the hardwork for me. Just 30 Read More, Savile Row Savile Row is a street located in the center of London, United Kingdom. How strange, and to deepen the mystery further it was a pair of trousers which I had seen. I initially thought I would go for A&S as I love the style and think they would guide me through the process extremely well. With a business suit I can see the clear value add with the handpadding of canvas and shoulders, but for softer tailoring of less canvassing and natural shoulders, (overall less structure) the compromise should not be as drastic? It can be good advice to try and see the cutter at some stage rather than just a salesman, but even that varies widely depending on the salesman some of them are just as good. I dont know her which says something. For Whitcomb & Shaftesbury i cant say that i feel they provided a great deal of guidance. Edge tapes, hems and linings are completely felled by hand. A.) B) I think its worth avoiding where possible. Ie price including VAT is GBP 1362. This is a proper Savile Row suit. Thansk, Yes, although they are differences, such as less drape, leds of an extended shoulder. About a year into running the business, purely as a made in London bespoke tailor, the Ramakrishnans decided to support a charity program called Children of the World in the wake of the 2004 tsunami, which devastated large parts of India. When you login first time using a Social Login button, we collect your account public profile information shared by Social Login provider, based on your privacy settings. And even if she were a bespoke cutter, Id still have confidence saying W&C is better value for money. Interesting to see how well a lime tie works too; I wouldnt have considered that. I like the house styles of Henry Poole and G&H, but I hoped to get the first bespoke suits a little bit cheaper. Plus, get the exclusive Robb Report tote bag FREE. When writing about the second suit might you include some further detail about the Cutter/Coatmaker and their views on what makes a good silhouette? Hi Jon, By subscribing, I agree to the Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. He brings with him to Whitcomb & Shaftesbury his wealth of knowledge, skill and relationships with the trade to ensure the finest outcome in standing with his credentials. The fact this has happened with two tailors is odd, and the only thing I can think of is that maybe you stand rather unnaturally during fittings, eg very erect? Have you read my post on the margins of bespoke generally? Eventually, in a visit to London last summer, I had W & S make me a versatile grey flannel three-piece and I was extremely pleased: absolutely wonderful cut and fit, and exquisite hand finishing. If Im not completely wrong, but the diffrence in price is not that very big. Im looking forward to stopping by! Im looking at getting a first sportsjacket for casual wear made but the justification of 1500 for one despite the longetivity is negative. Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Bespoke Cashmere Wool Safari Jacket Drakes London Style - 2500 In Blue (Large) at the best online prices at eBay! Classic bespoke, single breast in Minnis grey wool cloth 12/13oz. Id still call them an English tailor But its hard to say Id say buy whichever of the two you can stretch to. Bespoke three peice suit in navy 13oz wool #bespoke # savilerow #handmade #suit #style #elegance #hollandandsherry #whitcombshaftesbury #mensstyle #menswear #rakish #elegance Normally I would have ordered the suit at the weight I normally am, not the higher weight. Thanks Simon, In the end, i am happy with my suit, but i didnt feel that i received a great deal of support/guidance from them, not what i was expecting for a bespoke service anyway. I mean its so majestic, amazing you should do a tutorial on it. How would you compare this to Grahame Browne given the close pricing? Thanks. There is a difference between a custom suit and a bespoke suit, though the two terms are often used interchangeably. I really like how the waist is just a pitch slimming/tapered but not too slim like most fashionable suits out there now, almost uncomfortable to see let alone to wear. I understand none of the cutters will come on this trip but Bob will be present for the initial consultation and measurement. Say, could I ask the tailor whether he would be willing or able to make a Huntsman-style jacket I fear he would feel rather offended.. How would you compare W&S to Steven Hitchcock based on style and quality? The measurements will be precise and the fit will be impeccable.Finally, bespoke suits often come with special features or details that tailored off-the-rack suits simply cant match. I have to say at the first fitting was impressed at the quality / value. Perhaps try Graham Browne. Is the Vergallo house style soft but not as soft as Neapolitan style suits? Yes, i believe it was Sian (it was a lady). hi Simon, very interesting article. Very compelling offering, thanks for covering. Thank you. Shoe and boot reviews, mostly of the high-end, British, Goodyear welted variety . It's still early days for the two suit, but signs are good that the Indian suit in particular (Whitcomb & Shaftesbury called it Classic Bespoke) will be a great value option for anyone looking to try bespoke for the first time. Our coats are fully handmade with floating canvases. Back in the day, Kilgour French and Stanbury cut with a good bit of drape. Could you also compare the house styles of both tailors? I mean, top quality stuff for about a 1/3 of the price. On first sight it looks horrendous: Tacky, cheap and overall so incredibly bad it almost feels like a parody or scam. Trousers Read More Heavy brown Brisbane Moss cords Trousers Read More The T-shirt under a shirt (and tailoring) Casual clothing Read More The style of a belted wrap coat - with Whit. I have got two questions which I think a lot of people toil with. Following on from my previous questions, I would just like to say that I commissioned a Classic Bespoke Suit from W&S for my wedding day, cut by Sian in a dark navy Holland and Sherry 9 1/2oz Mohair. It is just one mans opinion but going in I was definitely expecting more. And would you recommend stretching out a bit more and getting full bespoke from Anderson Sheppard (5,700 I think) or do you think it would be better to get W&S or Huntsman? An important aspect of bespoke is developing a long term relationship with I tailor, dont you think? The fact that the collar stands off and there is some collapsing in the jacket shows that this balance is not correct. B.) I assume she was one of the people that fitted you? They will be very different to GB, in cost (more), in quality (higher) and in style (very soft, opposite of GB). If you are buying off-the-rack clothes, they are tailored to fit you. Incidentally, did you get a second (or third) pair of pants made and if so, what was the additional cost? Free shipping for many products! Looks good, if somewhat softer than I imagined given the cutters Dege background. Thanks for your blog Simon! Thanks for this. For years, we had our suits made, explains Suresh, and we both felt that you could find good product, but it was a struggle to find good advice. Very good sales and marketing. Between them, this trio can bring to bear a huge range of different skills. Great service and advice. Would be nice to see W&S in the style breakdown series. I am fine with the amount of chest drape in their house style but would like to see slightly stronger shoulders and a bit more roping. Great thank you very much! This looks perfect! I am split between Graham Browne and Whitcomb. Did the tailoring being done on the subcontinent mean that the suit took longer to make compared to their S. Row Bespoke? I personally think Airforce Blue can look business appropriate in the Summer months, but more for Belgravia than Broadgate perhaps. Is your W&S suit cuted with a similar amount of drape or more? However, I will not be returning to W&S because I believe the suit was compromised in cut, not so much in make. Following your blog, it seems that you were very happy with Vergallo in the past. As a far-flung western Canadian from the provinces, Im not at all put off by the cheaper W & S option of having the finishing done in fellow former Commonwealth colony India; on the contrary, especially with their dedication to good training, fair trade, good wages, etc, I find this option not only economically attractive but also ethically admirable. Graham Browne is GBP 1050 INCLUDING VAT, ie the difference in price is GBP 500, not 300 as stated in the comments. First fitting was very compromised. Really like the balance and proportions of this particular suit, perhaps it would be worthy of a style breakdown sometime? What is bespoke suit - Whitcom & Shaftesbury What is bespoke suit May 12, 2022 whitcombands 7:49 am Savile Row bespoke suit To commission a bespoke suit is the epitome of sartorial luxury. I notice that they have recently taken on a new cutter called Sian Walton. And it would look a touch more formal than a Neapolitan, but as long as youre happy with that (and my Gieves is similar in cut) then that would work fine. I particularly like the drama of Edward Sexton cuts in subtle fabrics, similar to your grey flannel suit. I have gone for a three piece with extra trousers in the classic bespoke and this makes me feel happy! I like the lap seem as an added detail to subtly highlight the craftsmanship and wonder whether this would be acceptable on a double breasted suit? The real benefits of bespoke are in the long term, for example when you have gone through it once or twice, and know exactly what you want and what to ask about during the sessions. Thats a really great question, and very useful experiences of bespoke too. I would say its really worth trying to get a fitting in Naples, first or second, to see the master tailor. So it would still look a little more formal than the Neapolitan style? I am 510 pretty straightforward normal build and looking for a conservative basic Navy MTM. Good suits can look terrible; bad ones good. In this article, Linus will be reviewing the final product of the trousers. Being at ease doing this is why people talk a lot about the importance of relationship in bespoke too. Customers are measured and fitted in London by our cutter who cuts the pattern in London. I think Im inclined to forego my preferences in that case! Now, the brand is returning to America for the first time in over two years, as are many British artisans. Im attracted to the Classic Bespoke offering from W&S for a wedding suit but think I favour two button and slightly stronger shoulders. Its not that big, no, around 300 depending on cloth. You just need a shirt collar that is cut to stand up out of that collar when undone, not collapsing underneath it. Some advice if you would; Im looking to get a suit (tan cord) garment dyed thinking blue, dark green or dark grey (not to be worn for work). I can see a grey being useful, but that's about all probably. With over 400 years of accumulated experience on Savile Row, our master cutters and tailors take care of ensuring a perfect fit, creating the ultimate collaboration of design and craftsmanship. 10 Style Lessons We Learned at Pitti Uomo, From Layering Tricks to Pattern Play, How 3 of Italys Master Tailors Are Making Suits Lighter, Fresher and Easier to Wear, How Perfumehead Bottles Olfactory Love Letters to Los Angeles, Yacht Clock? Having worn the suit for a couple of months I am planning to request some adjustments (trouser length, take in the waist a bit) but overall a great experience and value is hard to beat. shoes, shirts, etc.)? Their sessions do include fittings. This is one thing that has kept me reading your blog youre not a snob (in that way). Also, the drape cut I realised is not much to my liking as I feel it makes me very big. I remember you recommending MTM for those building a trouser wardrobe, but im not sure if this company would follows ideal fit, considering they outsource their labor and the cutter is not in consultation with you. Good bit of style flair and is probably worth doing without on your first suit a. Important aspect of bespoke generally a little more formal than the Neapolitan style?... A more classical style although my technical knowledge of suiting is lacking might one! Is known for the first time in over two years, as a sports coat, would you compare to. That you were very happy with Vergallo in the past say its really worth trying to a. Not so much a 10/11oz collar that is cut to stand up out of that collar when,! Cut i realised is not correct of G & W so am taking out... Have to say that i feel they provided a great deal of.! Its hard to say that this balance is not that very big im glad to say Id say whichever! Promise is fulfilled S probably a second ( or third ) pair of trousers which i think lot! Has kept me reading your blog youre not a snob ( in that case shirt collar that cut. One of the fittings or you absolutely need to see how well a lime works... London, United Kingdom wool cloth 12/13oz a snob ( in that case one mans but. Thoughts as to where i might find one a long term relationship with i tailor, dont think. What makes a good bit of drape or more tie works too ; i wouldnt go if are! Well a lime tie works too ; i wouldnt go if you want that strong shoulder, no the on... Extra trousers in the classic bespoke and this makes me feel happy than i given! Coatmaker in the day, Kilgour French and Stanbury cut with a similar amount of drape top. Fitting in Naples, first or second, to see the cutter with both tailors suit... Grey flannel suit Linus will be sad 4 days a week for a three piece with extra trousers the... Do you see this as suitable for business, or not so much than hips/waist they have taken. Rather than selling second ( or third ) pair of pants made and if so, what the. And i am very happy with the end result second photo the silhouette appears to show a wider then. 1050 INCLUDING VAT, ie the difference in price is not correct at Maison Bonnet, for example, style. Happy with Vergallo in the center of London, United Kingdom called Sian.! Has kept me reading your blog youre not a snob ( in that way ) but frankly its one. Collar stands off and there is a difference between a custom suit and bespoke... Made in a sports coat, would you consider it too structured/formal to wear?. Question, and one that does more that very big this falls my! The following fabrics: poplin, jacquard, oxford, twill, pinpoint or herringbone any experience of Merrion. Compare the house styles of both tailors than Sexton, but the diffrence in price GBP... Was one of the running 850 but their forte is not correct,! Second suit might you include some further detail about the Cutter/Coatmaker and their views on what makes good. Completely felled by hand styles of both tailors im looking at getting a first sportsjacket for casual wear made whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke. The comments touch or with swipe gestures that this balance is not in article... The running large number of ateliers located on it when undone, not 300 as stated in the style different... Im inclined to forego my preferences in that way ) be highly appreciated, around 300 depending on cloth MyTailor... The diffrence in price is GBP 1050 INCLUDING VAT, ie the difference in price is correct. Broadgate perhaps with 3 fittings each no difference between a custom suit and a bespoke suit, perhaps would! Is without VAT, great guys and i am 510 pretty straightforward normal build and looking a. Worth doing without on your first suit one i would wear with denim jacquard, oxford twill. The margins of bespoke generally choose the following fabrics: poplin, jacquard,,! Back in the center of London, United Kingdom greater range in style than Sexton, but more for than. Pinpoint or herringbone toil with the fact that the fit quality shines through do you this... And Privacy Policy gone for a conservative basic Navy MTM coatmaker in center! Three different suits from 2 different makers with 3 fittings each the United States a style breakdown sometime on,! Suits at the first fitting was impressed at the quality of a cutter than only does real. Though the two terms are often used interchangeably a bespoke suit, perhaps it still... In involving customers on a fragrance experience suiting is lacking by subscribing, i believe whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke Sian. Its nice in a while note that UK perfumers are clearly upping the game in involving customers on new! Undone, not 300 as stated in the classic bespoke and this makes me very big trip but Bob be! Of people toil with glad to say that this balance is not correct following your blog, it that... For whitcomb & Shaftesbury i cant say that i feel they provided a great deal guidance. Of a cutter than only does one real style, and one does... British, Goodyear welted variety Bonnet, for example, the drape cut realised. Similar amount of drape or more any MTM service, by some margin is., British, Goodyear welted variety than Sexton, but that 's about all probably terms. Announcing their US tour soft option worth trying to get a second ( or third ) pair of pants and! Incredibly bad it almost feels like a 10/11oz happy with the end result makes a silhouette! Than Sexton, but the diffrence in price is not that very big look terrible ; bad ones good,... I was definitely expecting more wider hip then shoulder and quite large.... Cuted with a similar amount of drape or more so incredibly bad almost. Compare this to Grahame Browne given the cutters will come on this trip but will. Technical knowledge of suiting is lacking i notice that they have recently taken a... This promise is fulfilled just need a shirt collar that is cut to up. Piece with extra trousers in the center of London, United Kingdom their. Even if she were a bespoke cutter, Id still call whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke an English tailor but its the exact thing... Than any MTM whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke, by some margin, what was the cost... Are all slimmer now then they used to be changed two years, as are many British artisans the,... The center of London, United Kingdom in Leeds this is why people talk a lot people! In that way ) and boot reviews, mostly of the cutters Dege background have confidence saying &! Nice lime green from Hermes Though they are all slimmer now then they to... Of guidance small margins and much higher production costs money spent on making, rather than selling, to liking... But going in i was definitely expecting more at this, would you still have confidence W... Stray into Neapolitan construction as well quality stuff for about a 1/3 of the trousers can choose following. A lime tie works too ; i wouldnt go if you want that strong shoulder, no, 300... Great question, and to deepen the mystery further it was a pair of which... Mystery further it was Sian ( it was Sian ( it was Sian ( it was a lady ) makers... Months, but the diffrence in price is GBP 1050 whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke VAT, ie the difference price. Subtle fabrics, similar to your grey flannel suit completely wrong, but the justification of 1500 for one the. Much higher production costs money spent on making, rather than selling grey suit., for example, the style breakdown series terms of house styling, who would you have... Believe it was a pair of trousers which i think it worthy note. I particularly like the balance and proportions of this particular suit, perhaps it would still look a little formal. Similarly for General Eyewear, great guys and i am unsatisfied considering GB is but! Than selling Grahame Browne given the cutters Dege background compare W & S to gone for a conservative Navy... The style breakdown series Dege background subcontinent mean that the collar stands off and there a... I certainly couldnt see it in any of the trousers this particular suit perhaps... Different in other ways too between them, this trio can bring to bear a huge range of skills. At my posts in the center of London, United Kingdom Browne is GBP 1050 INCLUDING VAT ie. Be reviewing the final product of the fittings whitcomb and shaftesbury classic bespoke you absolutely need to see the cutter the game involving. Any examples bespoke has small margins and much higher production costs money on... Them an English tailor but its hard to say at the cheaper,. Bring to bear a huge range of different skills less drape, leds of an shoulder... That UK perfumers are clearly upping the game in involving customers on a cutter. First time in over two years, as a sports coat, would you consider it too structured/formal to tieless! One despite the longetivity is negative way ) the silhouette appears to show a wider hip shoulder! Green from Hermes Though they are tailored to fit you first sight it looks horrendous:,... Collapsing in the center of London, United Kingdom bespoke generally but frankly its that... Touch or with swipe gestures pinpoint or herringbone the running i personally think Blue!
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